Is it the end of the world if labels opt to showcase women’s wear at Milan Men’s Fashion Week? Luke Leitch thinks not.
The squabble for keeping women’s fashion shows and men’s fashion shows distinct makes unquestionable sense if you are a vender. After all, women and men shop on dissimilar floors of subdivision stores, where they browse attire neat in by altered buying teams.
At the shows, these buying teams have travelled to see clothes intended for either women or men – but never for both. Equally, teams from GQ magazines do not predominantly poverty to see high heels at the shows – even though the only man in a suit Vogue editors care to be antagonized with is their chauffeur.
So when two successive fashion shows here in Milan – first Prada and then Moncler Gamme Bleu – mixed women’s wear looks amongst the men’s, some watchers loosened resignedly in their seats. There were perceptible sighs – and not of pleasure. In my opinion I loved it. Because however distracting it is to observe the shifts and whirlpools at the highest level of men’s clothing design, it is sometimes conceivable to see too lots of brogues and luxury tracksuit trousers to continue on the superiority of your bench.
At Prada, looks from an unofficial pre-fall women’s assortment were spread amongst the mainline autumn winter 2014 menswear assortment. A section of long, woolly quilted gilets, fur coats and Western tailoring apart, the boys typically wore light and loose trousers with military sparks, old-school Prada Sport trainers, and slackly cut jackets. The colour scheme was Miuccia Prada’s pet counter-intuitive palette of mustards, browns, maroon and greens. Along with them, the girls in in the same way coloured loose knee length leather dresses, Afghan shaggy super-gilets, off-the-shoulder three-piece knit groupings and deadly high heels watched appropriate good indeed.
The assortments were related by far more than the skinny headscarves each model had looped disproportionately around their necks. Each gender’s clothing lent the others a dynamiting dissimilar context – and not just Is She Really Going Out With Him? At Moncler Gamme Bleu, Thom Browne showed women’s clothes for the first time in what was earlier this brand’s resolutely men-only intangible fashion line.
Forthrightly, many of these looks were so out there as to be gender-irrelevant anyhow. Yes, some of the females wore dresses – one individual quilted full-length in pink wool, green tweed, and darker green corduroy was princess-insulation – and the males have a habit of to wear trousers, or plus fours (the show was set in a golf clubhouse library).
As they strutted around this fake reference library to readings of Herrick and Shakespeare love sonnets, Browne’s mega-silhouette, argyle-overload designs didn’t ever make fascinating sense as a collection of clothes to buy and wear every day – but they worked dreamily as an extravagant fashionese putting in designed to further Moncler’s brand identity. At the women’s Gamme Rouge show at the Paris all set to wear shows in March, Giambattista Valli will apparently be showing men’s looks too – so that’s something for the exclusively womenswear buyers and editors to look forward to.
It’s an open furtive that fashion shows aren’t in the main about selling clothes, but as a substitute define an appealing line for the season ahead. They are selling tools for big, industrial businesses dressed up to put emphasis on the imagination of the product designers. For those brands that do sell to both men and women, and are able kind products that aren’t repellent to the opposite gender, it makes common sense to lift fashion’s gender divide as Prada and Moncler did in Milan this week.